Laserlite Multiwall Installation Guide with Tips
Suntuf Installation Guide and Tips
Installation of Suntuf is easy when you plan the job right!
Just keep our top installation tips in mind before you start to install your new Suntuf product.
Fall, pitch or slope?
Firstly, fall. A five degree fall is recommended as minimum for ensuring that it does not leak, remains clean and maintains structural integrity.
A good slope helps to move water off the roof. Flat roofs are more prone to water pooling (in sever cases) and leaking when the water cannot be dispersed quick enough. Designing in a good fall is always important at the start of a project.
All polycarbonate sheets are transparent (you can see through them) or translucent (light comes through them but you can’t see through them clearly). This means that you will be able to see, to some degree, what is on top of them. Leaves, dirt, dust, bird droppings, etc. The better the fall on your roof the easier it will be for these things to fall off or wash off.
Most manufactures recommend a minimum of 5 degrees (or 8.8%) fall. This means for every metre the sheet runs horizontally it should drop about 88 mm.
Spans – Where you will need your purlins
All profiled polycarbonate sheets require purlins or battens for fixing. These structural lengths of timber or metal run perpendicular to the fall of the sheet – see the below image for a visual explanation. Different profiles have different spanning capabilities. The below spans are given for a standard N3 wind rating, if you are in a high wind area you may require additional fixings and structure – call us to discuss.
Corrugated 800 mm End Spans and 1000 mm Mid Spans
Greca 900 mm End Spans and 1200 mm Mid Spans
Trimdek 900 mm End Spans and 1200 mm Mid Spans
Curving
Suntuf polycarbonate sheets can be cold curved. The shape of the sheet (the profile) will determine how tightly it can curve. If you want to determine if a sheet can cold curve to to suit your structure you will need to know the following information:
The chord: the horizontal distance from one side of the roof to the other.
The height: the vertical distance from the imaginary horizontal chord line to the top of the apex.
See the below diagram.
Cutting
We can cut sheets to length for you free of charge. Otherwise, sheets can be cut using a fine tooth circular saw, a jigsaw, or even with a good pair of scissors. When using power tools you will need to clamp the sheet as close to the end as possible to stop vibration. Remember to allow for some overhang to ensure that water from the sheet will fall into the gutter and not onto your structure.
Movement
All materials expand and contract when they heat up and cool down, and polycarbonates move more than most roofing materials. This means that it is important to allow the sheet room to move a little after it has been installed. This is easily done by following a few rules.
Firstly, drill an over-sized hole in the sheet for the screw fixing. Both Clearfix and OneShot branded screws have cutters embedded on the screw to save you time in completing this step – they cut the hole when you put the screw in.
Secondly, by allowing a small gap between the ends of sheets and where they might come up against another object – like a wall fascia. This isn’t as important on the barge sides as the majority of the expansion will occur along the length of the sheet.
Silicons
As a rule – they are not recommended. Silicons can act as an adhesive which can stop the sheet from moving (see above). Some silicons can also affect the chemicals in the sheet which protect it from UV radiation. If you can’t avoid it use a neutral cure or non-acidic silicon sparingly. Be sure not to put it along the length of the sheet where you will see the most expansions and contraction.
Accessories
Purlin tape can be used to stop creaking of the sheet with expansion and contraction. As the name suggests it is applied to the purlin prior to installing the sheet, and acts as buffer. It is particularly useful with painted purlins, where in hot weather the paint can become tacky and cause the sheet to stick and make more noise as it expands and contracts.
Flashings are used to seal the edges of the sheet.. There are a few different types that are common. Ridge capping is used to flash a gable at the peak of the roof. Barge Flashing is used on the sides of the structure to cover the edges of the sheet and sometimes protect the timber structure underneath. And Apron Flashing is used to seal between a vertical wall or fascia and the roof itself. You can get a number of these flashings in polycarbonate or have them manufactured in metal.
Suntuf Flat Barge Flashing
Suntuf Flat Ridge Capping
Suntuf Profiled Ridge Capping
Suntuf Profiled Apron Flashing
Infills can be used between the sheet and any flashings or structure for weatherproofing. Infills are available in the standard roofing profiles: Corrugated, Greca or Trimdek (5-rib). An infill may be used between the the sheet and the Apron flashing on the top edge of the roof, or between the purlin and the sheet at the gutter end of the sheet to weather seal.
Back channels are normally used when the top end of the sheet is being installed directly underneath a gutter. A metal channel C- section is combined with foam to seal the end of the sheet in these circumstances.
Screws
We supply 2 brands of screws; Clearfix or Oneshot.
One Shot screws are available in either a timber T17 or a metal Tek. When screwing into hardwood or larger gauge metals they are the screw of choice. They come with a cutter to pre-cut a 10 mm expansion hole into the polycarbonate sheet, and a soft rubber washer to seal the large hole.
The Clearfix screw is a dual purpose head – suitable for both timber and metal installations. They also come with a cutter and washer to suit polycarbonate.
Storage
Store Suntuf on a flat surface away from direct light and moisture.
Cleaning
Warm soapy water, with a soft sponge. Be careful not to scratch the sheet. Rinse well. Don’t use other chemicals.
Installing the Polycarbonate
The standard installation guide covers the actual fixing of the sheets well. Make sure you read it. Find it here… Suntuf Installation Guide.
Allow for the sheet to overhang the lower purlin by 50 mm.
Sheets will arrive with labels showing ‘This side up’ and it is very important to install the sheets in the correct orientation. A UV layer on the polycarbonate, protect the sheet from premature breakdown. Put it up the wrong way and you will experience decreased life for your polycarbonate.
When screwing the sheets keep the screw straight to ensure weather seal of washer. Don’t over-tighten the screws. If you’re not using the branded screw mentioned above, be sure to pre-drill a 10 mm holes in sheet.
Install the first sheet screwing along the ‘lower (gutter) purlin’ from the outside (Barge side) towards the middle of the structure. Screw every other corrugation along the bottom purlin. Install the sheets without stress – that is; don’t pull, tension or twist the sheets.
Next move up to the next purlin screwing across the sheet in the same direction. Place screws as per the below diagram and continue this for all the ‘internal purlins’ or ‘mid purlins’.
Finally, Screw along the top ‘upper purlin’ placing a screw every second corrugation.
Move along to the next sheet. Use one corrugation side lap, ensuring the lap is against the primary direction of wind/rain. Finish the job by installing any required flashings. Don’t forget to remove any stickers or tapes from the sheet.
Thanks for looking at our Suntuf Installation Guide and happy installing!
Related posts
What about valleys?
Hi Jesse
Yes, valley fixing is one method… generally we would recommend crest as per a standard roof install! See my response to Roy for a full rundown.
I am building a steel work shop/ shed,6×5 metres. On the north facing gable end I am going to put a horizontal 6m sheet of diffused ice and on the south side a 6 m horizontal sheet of clear (to maximise light)
With your years of experience , please let me know the best way to fix to the steel studs
Regards
Novice shed clad der
Roy
Hi Roy
Thanks for the question.
I assume that you will be running the ribs on the sheet vertically, for the gable end. If not, you may find that dust/dirt will build up in the ribs of the sheet as water will not easily wash them off. But for installing, you can fix the sheet via various methods:
1. Crest fixing – you can use the normal polycarbonate compatible screw (e.g. Clearfix or OneShot) for steel. These include a cutter which cuts a 10 mm hole in the sheet as you insert the screw. This allows for expansion and contraction in the sheet.
2. Valley Fixing – you can also screw through the valleys of the sheet. Generally speaking this is a less watertight method, but for a vertical wall this is less of a problem. A few things to note if you choose to do this. The standard polycarbonate screws that have cutters are no good. The cutters will get in the way. You MUST pre-drill a 10 mm expansion hole. you also need to take care not to pin the sheet to the frame by over tightening.
I hope that this provides some assistance to you.
Cheers
Richard
What side of the sheet should face up?
Hi Rick
Thanks for the question. All sheets will be clearly marked with a label saying THIS SIDE TO THE SUN, this is very important to stop the sheet breaking down prematurely.
Richard
Can you please advise me how to cut the trim deck roofing, we have a shed and need to add on to it to protect gardening equipment?
Hi Kev
Thanks for the question.
We can cut sheets to length for you free of charge. Simple advise us of your requirements when you order.
Otherwise, sheets can be cut using a fine tooth circular saw, a jigsaw, or even with a good pair of scissors (if you are only cutting small sections or the odd sheet). When using power tools you will need to clamp the sheet as close to the end as possible to stop vibration, and it can often be easier to cut a few sheets at a time. Remember to allow for some overhang to ensure that water from the sheet will fall into the gutter and not onto your structure.
Thanks
Can I install lights legally under the this fitted poly roof?
Hi Levi
I have never hear of this being a problem… Usually the roofing sits on top of timber rafters and purlins you would need to fix the light to some of this structure. Pending the type of bulb and the heat that it gives off you may need to consider the distance from the light to the polycarbonate. Otherwise, your electrician should be able to advise you further.
Hope this helps
Polycarbonate Roofing
Hi, I want to use the 10mm twin wall sheeting to enclose a balcony on a 1st floor. What are the installation guidelines with regards to wind and distances needed in between fastening.
thanks
Hi Justin
A full answer to the question would require information on your local wind rating. For standard (up to N3 rating) fixings are generally recommended at 800 centers (through the Aluminium H bars). Under high wind situations it may be necessary to place a polycarbonate roofing screw directly through the center of the sheet. IF you thin you may need – please contact us for a copy of the high wind installation guide.
Cheers
Polycarbonate Roofing
I am building a 20m x 5m carport/side verandah structure on the side of my house. We want to include some 100% block for full shade via corrugated Zincalume sheets as well as some Suntuf sheeting. Even allowing for doors, windows etc…. do you have any guidelines for the best way to produce an even diffused light effect? Is it best to keep an even spacing of Suntuf sheets (1:1, 2:1 or 3:1) within the structure, or focus more on spacing to suit windows etc… Thank you.
Hi Mike
Thanks for the question. There is no direct answer to this question other than to point out a few considerations:
1. The more polycarbonate the more light… it will depend on the balance that you are looking for.
2. When considering light diffusion colour plays a large part – colours like opal will scatter the light coming through the sheets and give a more even spread of light. Clear may let more light through, but you will see clear shadow lines on the ground below outlining the joining of metal to polycarbonate…
3. Many people use polycarbonate over windows or doors to allow light to flow into other areas as needed and find this practical – it may not give an ‘even’ light to the whole area however.
I trust this helps somewhat.
Cheers
Polycarbonate Roofing
Hello, Got a problem you may be able to solve for me. I have recently replaced the polycarbonate roofing sheets (greca profile) on my pergola which hang over guttering, but I am now noticing some water creeping back up from the ends that overhangs the gutter and drop onto the floor below. Depending on the the strength of the rain it can become quite annoying. Is there a solution to stop the water creeping back and drop straight into the gutter as intended. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Hi Michael
Thanks for the question. I would assume that the gradient (fall) on the roof is a bit low. You have a few options…
1. Increase the fall on the roof. This would require quite some effort, but it does have the added benefit of improving the ‘self cleaning’ of the sheets. This means that when it rains, or the wind blows, dirt/leaves etc are more likely to wash off the sheeting making it look more appealing. If that sounds a bit too hard…
2. Depending on the distance from the end of your sheeting to the end purlin, you could use infills under the sheeting to stop the water creep. Obviously it will keep creeping until it hits the infill – this may or may not help. Finally…
3. You could add a small amount of silicon to the valley section of the roofing at the very end of the sheet in the gutter. This will effectively create a ‘drip edge’ which will help to stop the water creep. If you do decide to use this option – remember the following: use a neutral cure (Polycarbonate friendly) silicon, only apply the silicon to the sheet, i.e. don’t use it as an adhesive to stick the sheet down to the purlin. It is important that you allow the sheet to expand and contract.
I trust that this helps.
Regards
Polycarbonate Roofing
I am building a small shed 8′ X 10′ with a 1′ rise for a 2′ run. Should I install drip edge along either the sides or bottom of the roof?
Hi Keith
Thanks for the question.
If I am understanding you correctly, you have a 1 foot fall for every 2 foot run (horizontal distance traveled). This would give you a fall of about 26 degrees. With a good fall like this you should not require a drip edge… the water is very unlikely to travel back up the under side of the sheet. I trust this answers your question!
Thanks
Polycarbonate Roofing.
Hi, I have an old flue in my metal roof that I want to remove and replace with a clear sheet to let some more light into my living room.
Are any of your products suitable and can you let me know how to install them so that i doesn’t leak?
Thanks,
Richard
Hi Richard
I assume that you are talking about a ‘chimney’ flue coming through the roof. It is not clear if the flue is leaving the roof from within the wall of the house or outside, from a patio roof. If internally… this is not usually done as there is always a ceiling under the roofing, which of course would stop any light getting into the rooms of the house… effectively just lighting up the ceiling cavity. This would normally be achieved with a skylight which effectively creates a tunnel from the roof through the ceiling cavity to the ceiling. This ‘tunnel’ keep outs heat/vermin/bugs etc from the ceiling cavity getting into the house. In some cases the cavity may be built in. This may be a consideration…?
Otherwise, as for waterproofing… the best solution where possible is always to replace a whole sheet so that the polycarbonate would run from the flashing on the top edge of the roof to the gutter in a continuous length. In this case you can lap the polycarbonate OVER on BOTH sides of the metal. As per usual you would need to pre-drill the polycarbonate, use a polycarbonate compatible washer and screw normally through the metal sheet on the lap.
I trust that this helps, don’t hesitate to give us a call if you have further questions.
Regards
Polycarbonate Roofing
Hello I have had a pergla plastice roof replaced & it leaks or drips water from some of the screws should this happen
Hi Ray
No, like any roofing, it shouldn’t leak if it has been installed correctly. It may just mean that some of the screws have not been put in straight, meaning that the washer isn’t sitting flush and making contact the full way around. I would start by having a look at the screws.
Regards
Polycarbonate Roofing.
Hi was is the correct overlap a corner please the veranda is in the corner of the house and thus 2 sheets will overlap at 90 degrees
Hi Ron
Thanks for the question.
With Corrugated roof sheets (or any profiled sheet for that matter), when you are working around a corner the sheets will not overlap. You will be creating either a ‘hip’ or a ‘valley’ depending on if it is an external or internal corner. In either case you would need to cut the sheets at an angle and then use a flashing for water proofing. You would be best to speak to a local metal fabricator for these flashings.
Regards
Polycarbonate Roofing.
Hi, I have a carport with a colorbond fence 1800 high, affixed to the carport posts, I need to fill in the gap at the top of the fence (about 400mm) and plan on using some clear polycarb sheeting (Suntuf greca profile, ridges will be horizontal) what is the best way to seal the top and bottom? I was thinking of using some colorbond flashing. the sheets themselves will be screwed to the carport posts using polycarb roofing screws.
Hi Heath
Thanks for the question.
Yes some custom flashing would be the best way to seal this. Be aware that there maybe a bit of dirt/dust visible on the corrugations of the sheets as it can build up a little when running the sheets horizontally. Be sure to face the UV side out, otherwise it can break down prematurely.
Good luck
Polycarbonate Roofing.
Do I wait to secure the top row of screws onto the roofing sheets until I pt on the ridge cap? So the ridge cap and roofing is screwed in at the same time?
Hi Bruce
Thanks for the question.
It could be done either way, if you screw the sheets first the screw head may make the flashing sit a little proud, a foal infill usually overcomes this. If you screw them both at once you need to ensure that the polycarbonate is still pre-drilled with an oversize hole for the screw to allow for expansion and contraction.
If you use a polycarbonate flashing you can use the standard screw with the cutter. The cutter will cut bother the flashing and the polycarbonate.
If you us a metal flashing, you may find that you need to remove the cutter from the screw (oneshot) or find a screw without a cutter. in this case you would need to take the extra step of pre-drilling the polycarbonate sheet.
I hope this helps.
Cheers
Polycarbonate Roofing.
How do you fix the end panels to the facia when installing under a gutter. and does it matter which way the “C” section goes ie wide side up or down?
Hi Ted
The ‘back channel’ is usually pinned against the fascia with the long side on the top. It should be used with foam for waterproofing and to allow for some expansion and contraction. There are numerous ways in which you could hold the channel in place… rivet,screw into fascia a dab of silicon etc.
I trust this helps
Polycarbonate Roofing
If you can’t walk on the polycarbonate sheets how do you climb up to fit and fix the ridge capping to a hip roof?
Thank you 🙂
Hi Michelle
Walking directly on polycarbonate sheeting is not recommended. In situations where you need to get across the polycarbonate it is recommended that you use a “crawl board” or in other words a plank! It should span across a few of the supports underneath the roofing to spread the load. Be sure to take care not to scratch the sheets too – you can use a blanket underneath.
I trust this helps.
Regards
Polycarbonate Roofing team
I am fixing 8 Sunglaze sheets to a pergola roof. I have all the joiner sections for the 7 mid sections, but how are the sides of the two end pieces sealed?
Hi James
Where a full sheet is used you can use the joiner again. If you are cutting the sheet a few angles, one under and one above the sheet is one method. Then the angles can be screw into place to secure the edge of the sheet.
Kind regards
Polycarbonate Roofing
I have know worked that one out
Hi.. Ive just installed the roofing yesterday, and today there are cracks running the full length. These cracks are only on the underside. They are not the whole way through. I can defininately catch my finger nail on the cracks. They are on most of the ridges that i have screwed. So im thinking over tightened. But i see they are on some ridges not screwed, but i cant catch my finger nail on these oned. They look like cracks, but dont seem to be.
Hi William
Thanks for the comment. Certainly doesn’t sound right! Over tightening isn’t normally a concern (as the sheets will bounce back into place once backed-off). I think your best course of action would be to contact someone from where you purchased the product.
Good luck!
Polycarbonate Roofing
Just a thought. On the Grandkids cubby house ( used to be our garden shed but, what do you do?) a full size gutter wasn,t needed but a cover of some description was needed along the bottom edge of roof panels so various heads weren,t cut. Ended up fitting a strip of Back Channel minus the infill and sloping it away to one end. Looks good, no sharp edges. For the limited amount of water its fine.
I am roofing a pergola attached to a 2 story house. How should I seal the flashing against the rendered wall?
Hi Craig
Thanks for your question. I assume that you are using an apron flashing? This would normally be sealed with silicon in most cases. I trust this helps.
The team at Polycarbonate Roofing
Hi
What overlap is required when the sheeting is between colorsteel up the roof.
Thanks
Kia Ora Quentin
Thanks for your question. Side laps are standard, that is one and a half ribs for corrugated, one rib for Greca profile and one rib for Trimdek.
If you are referring to end laps (as i suspect you are), you are normally recommended to lap some where between 200-300 mm. This means 100-150 each side of the row of lap screws (you always need to make sure that the lap is over a support. We have covered this (with a helpful picture) in another post see the link below:
http://polycarbonate.com.au/polycarbonate-sheets-longer-3-6-m/
I trust this helps!
Polycarbonate Roofing
I would like to install panels onto an existing aluminum pergola which is attached to my house. The structure has 5 rafter beams which are 2 inch by 6.5 inch set 22 inches apart supporting 48 purlins which are 1.5 inches square set 1.5 inches apart. This is attached to the house on two sides with pillars at the outside corners. The structure has no pitch to allow for water runoff. Do you think that I would be able to use your product to cover the existing structure? Keeping in mind the beams and purlins are hollow, how would you advise attaching panels to the aluminum?
Hi Julie
Thank you for your question.
There are a few considerations here! The short answer is yes, it could be used – but there would be a few compromises:
1. Polycarbonate sheets are either transparent or translucent – this means that you can see through them to varying degrees. This also means that you will see any leaves, bird droppings, dirt etc on the top of the sheet. One of the reasons that a 5 degree fall is recommended is for self-cleaning of the sheets.
2. Water run off – a flat roof is much more likely to leak, hard to flash and hard to control where the water may run off – i.e. against the walls of the house!
3. Water pooling – if the water is not running off it can pool on top of the sheet. While polycarbonate is very strong it may sag under the weight of the water. This probably won’t be too much of a consideration for you as you have lots of purlins close together – which would most likely stop possible sagging effect.
4. You may void parts of your manufacturers warranty.
If you did decide to go ahead you would screw in the usual way through the crest using a TEK head polycarbonate screw (such as Clearfix or Oneshot).
I hope this helps
Polycarbonate Roofing.
Hi,
Have just had a new polycarbonate ‘roma’ clear roof installed (about 3weeks ago), very happy with the result, but, I can see patches of residue from the removed stickers, please could you advise how I can get the sticky stuff off without marking or damaging the ploycarbonate. Worried if I leave it too long it may harden therefore making it harder to remove.
Thanks.
Hi Caroline
You have to be a little careful not to damage the UV coating on the sheet. Therefore NO abrasives or chemicals. Some warm water with a mild soap and a little ‘gentle’ persistence may be the best answer. Most manufactures have stickers that are designed to not leave any residue behind… Try to get to it sooner rather than later.
Best of Luck Polycarbonate Roofing.
Condensation under polycarbonate.Rafters attached to fascia with painted timber battens.fall away from house roof.Roofing starts above existing spouting with 100mm over hang and falls away from house at minimum fall to the new spouting.I am a builder an have never had a problem with condensation under polycarbonate (Tas)
Hi Reijo
Condensation can occur on all types of roofing, Polycarbonate is no different. It is usually caused by a temperature differential on either side of the sheet. It is pretty hard to control but increased air flow usually helps.
Thanks Polycarbonate Roofing
How to connect the top of the greca roof to the gutter of my house? The gutter is at a lower position
Hi Js
There are a few ways to do this, depending on where the roofing actually finishes.
A back channel can be used to go either under the gutter or in some cases but into it. Otherwise a custom flashing going from the top of the roofing and turning into the gutter may be needed.
Kind regards
Polycarbonate Roofing.
Is there any professional installation service to be recommended? The proceed of installation is a little bit complicated.
Hi Bill
We are a supply only company. For most products a handyman should be able to help you regarding installation.
Kind regards
Polycarbonate Roofing.
I currently have a roof area of 17m x 8m over my pool (skillion roof) that is covered with colorbond sheeting. I would like to get some light in and was thinking of replacing some colorbond sheets with clear or tinted polycarbonate. What is the best way to fix a polycarbonate when matching it to existing colorbond shets (using one shot screws)?
Hi Damien
Once you have matched up the profile of your colorbond to the Polycarbonate its pretty easy. One Shots are good for going through the polycarbonate only sections, but where the sheets lap with metal you will need a different screw as the cutter on this type of screw will get in the way. You will need to pre-drill a expansion hole in the polycarbonate and then use a standard roofing screw with a polycarbonate compatible washer to fix.
We trust this helps
Team Polycarbonate Roofing.
I intend using corrugated polycarbonate on the south facing wall of a shelter.
Due to orientation and location, the south wall it, is likely to have sunshine on winter mornings on the INSIDE of the wall, and sunshine on the OUTSIDE of the wall on late afternoons in summer. Which side should face out to avoid UV damage?
Hi Graham
Thanks for the question. Using a corrugated sheet in this way is not advisable as it is only UV treated on one side – the sheets are all marked on one side with “this side up”. You might want to consider a twinwall like SUNLITE as it us UV treated on both sides and is probably better suited to this job.
If you wanted to proceed with the corrugated sheeting you would need to decide which surface would get less UV and orientate the sheets accordingly.
Thanks – Team Polycarbonate
Can I Install Polycarbonate Roofing Sheets straight onto the Rafter without purlins? (Rafter about 600 distance)
Hi Deiter
Thanks for the question. Some polycarbonate systems can be installed onto purlins. For ‘profiled’ sheets it is NOT possible – you require purlins. For Twinwall or multiwall sheets – it is possible, though some are better suited than others. This will depend on the exact distance between the rafters.
Sunlite can be cut down to suit any size.
http://polycarbonate.com.au/suntuf-sunlite-twin-wall-polycarbonate/
Sunpal has sheets with fixed widths and rafter centers of 602 mm.
http://polycarbonate.com.au/sunpal-multiwall-polycarbonate/
Hope this helps
Team Polycarb
Hi,
I have recently installed the roof sheeting to a pergola. I have noticed local water build up at the end span next to the gutter. The end span sheet is sagging down and then past the last rafter (extending into the gutter) the sheeting is lipping back up. I have checked the screws and they are generally level. Would the sag in the sheet be due to overtightened screws or the end span in the sheet being to long?
Deniz
Hi Deniz
Thanks for the question. There are a few possibilities here…
1. As suggested your end spans are to large. For standard profile you will find a list of the maximum end spans listed in the second table on the linked page
LINK HERE – table for end spans
2. As also suggested it may also be a screw problem – there are two possible causes here:
a. Screw over tightening. The washer should contact the sheet without causing the sheet profile to deform, in other words it should sit pretty naturally. It seems that you have check this!
b. Not predrilling an expansion hole (or not using screws that have cutter to do this automatically) – this can also cause the sheet to buckle (normally during the hottest part of the day).
My guess without know your profile or end spans it that its most likely to be end spans… feel free to come back with this info.
Hope that this helps.
Team polycarbonate.
Hi
We have installed Greca roofing over a pergola. All good except the ridge capping (Greca profile) doesn’t sit flush once screwed onto the sheets. If we take it off & put on a non profile ridge cap, what is the overhang required from the ridge cap to the sheet? Does the ridge cap come only one width? If the ridge cap doesn’t provide enough coverage is the only option to re roof with more overhang at the top?
Thanks
Bev
Hi Bev
My first thought is they have screwed down too tight which is distorting the ridge cap. So might pay to check and maybe ease off a little?
Failing that the non-profiled ridge cap does only come in one size which is 130mm each side.
If you are worried about the cover then you could get a colourbond ridge capping pressed up to your requirements (supplied by others) and use the foam infills to seal the profile (as you could use also with the ‘flat’ polycarbonate ridge capping. Colourbond will probably work out cheaper than the polycarbonate flashings.
I cant attach anything through this system so I will email you some drawing separately.
Regards Judy
Polycarbonate Roofing
What type of flashing or capping do I use if running the Suntuff sheeting along a chamfer wall longways
Hi Karyn
If I understand correctly you are looking for a flashing that will be running down the length/side of the sheet against the house?
Your best option would be to get a colourbond apron flashing. You can get these pressed up at a local sheet metal place. You can give them
the measurements and they can make to suit. Make the width of the flashing far enough to cover over at least one
corrugation on the sheet to waterproof. You can then seal the metal flashing to the wall.
Thanks Judy
Can I use brute flashing tape on polycarbonate to form a water tight seal or will this damage the polycarbonate?
Thanks
Rob
Hi Robert
Thanks for the question. Did you mean Byute Flash…? We recommend a Butyl Rubber for sealing in some circumstances. I can see that this product is mostly made from this, however I am not sure regarding some of the other ingredients (taken from the safety data sheet). Maybe a standard flashing with some infills – to be safe?
Regards
Team PC
useful tips…
thanks you so much Polycarbonate Roofing Team
Hi
I have been asked to replace all screws to an entire roof. How ever the screws supplied are a oneshot polycarbonate fixing and the existing roof sheets are tin!
Is this still within australian standards??
I think the customer is trying to achieve a more durable rubber but im curious because these screws dont have the second thread to help pull the sheet to the battern
Hi Sam
My main concern here would be the cutter on the OneShot screws – this is deisgned to cut the polycarbonate and isnt really suitable for metal/tin sheets. I suspect you will have no luck getting them in.
I am not sure if it would comply with AS.
Team PC
Hi,
Just curious if there any any issues with overlapping corrugated sheeting by more than recommended? Ie. 2-3 full corrugated overlaps? Issues with holding water or mould, etc?
Cheers
Hi Adam
Thanks for the email. The simple answer is yes. It will be dependent on fall, but dirt can build up in any lap. Sometime people will do this for ‘extra’ waterproofing on low fall situations, there is no harm – but it can look unsightly.
Team polycarbonate.
Hi Adam
The short answer is yes, you may get more visible dust/dirt between sheets. Maybe a butyl rubber could help (this is also visible, but generally better looking). The greater the fall the less the risk, are you using extra laps due to low fall?
Thanks Team PC
I have a polycarb sheet lifting on the left edge as the screw no longer holds it. The sheet is 2/3 from front edge. Is there a way to re-fasten from the inside. I cannot reach the edge in question and i dont belive the structure will take my weight.
Hi Neill
Sorry, but if I am understanding you correctly, I don’t think what you are suggesting is possible. While it may be possible to get a screw in from below, I don’t believe that it would hole for long. Any options for a stitching screw setup with a ‘grommet’ (see below image) on the end of the screw would require a hand on the top to secure… so would still require you to be on the roof.
I hope this helps?
Regards
Team Polycarb
Hi just after a little bit more guidance on the back channel, foam and roofing sheet combination installation, am I correct in saying, I secure the channel to the wall, install the foam into the channel, then butt the roof sheeting up to the foam in the channel with a little pressure against the foam then screw sheets in place. Any other advice?
Hi Ross, yes you have the idea. Some people will just pin the back channel to the wall using the sheet and then silicon the back channel. you may need another set of hands to help with this method though.
Hope this helps
Team PC
We have built a wooden frame approx cover 34m2. We have 1 beam attached to a wall and 3 more cross beams running in the direction we want to put the roof sheets (width of area…. 5.5m). Our question however, how many beams do we need for support on the longer side of the structure… i.e approx 6.2m .
Area to cover: 34m2 (5.5m long x 6.2m wide) i know we will need about 10 sheets of 5.5m. Will placing beams 1m apart in the width suffice?
Hi Michelle
Thanks for your question.
The answer will depend on what product you are using. I will assume that because you have comments on this particular post that you are referring to a profiled sheet i.e. corrugated, greca or trimdek profile.
If I understand you correctly, you will have rafters 5.5 m long (this is the direction of the fall on the roof) and your purlins will need to be 6.2 m long (these run perpendicular to the length of the sheeting)… see below for clarification. So you need to know what spans the purlins are placed apart
This information can be found here. Look at the second blue table – you need to look at the “Maximum Mid Spans” and “Maximum End Spans” – these will change pending the profile.
Hope this helps
Team PC
Hi. At the overlap of each sheet, do you place an extra screw in this edge or can you skip it and keep to your screw placement in every 3 or 2 corrugations?
Hi Michelle
The overlap must always be screwed down, so no you cannot skip it. This will disrupt the 2-3 pattern so you must add an extra screw if required.
Team PCR
Hi,
We recently installed corrugated polycarbonate roofing on our pergola but used too few screws. I’m wondering if we can get up on the roof to add more screws. If we lie across the rafters so the weight is distributed would that be ok? Ie. how much weight can they take?
Many thanks!
Hi Josie
This can be done, the use of crawl boards is recommended. This is a plank that spans across a number of supports to distribute your weight. Be sure not to scratch the plank over the sheeting.
Hope this helps
Team PC
Hi,
I recently used your one shot steel screws on a metal/tin roof on the advice of a Bunnings worker. After reading the packaging etc I see these screws are for polycarbonate sheeting into steel. The screws went in fine and straight and the washers are sitting tight. What are your thoughts on this long term?
Thanks in advance.
Hi Peter
Thanks for the questions. We are not confident on our answer to this one. In theory the screw should be ok… we were all a bit surprised that you managed to get the screws in! The problem would be that to change them you would need to consider how to manage the larger hole that the screw would have cut in the metal sheet. Maybe not worth worrying about?
Sorry we can be of more help with this one.
Team PC
Hi, just a question, I am installing Suntuf over a pool pump and filter setup. and being only a small structure, what is the maximum length that can be installed without any support under the polycarbonate? It would only be a couple sheets wide. Screwed front and back with a slight fall?
What is the best colour for best UV block out as there will be no sides/ walls, only a roof over the equipement?
Hi Peter
Thanks for your enquiry. Maximum span would depend on the profile of the sheet you would be using. Do you have a preference? What would the length of the span be?
All the polycarbonate provides 99.9 UV protection regardless of colour. Different colours then reduce heat and light so probably just pick a colour that is going to match whatever you have around.
Regards Judy
What should the distance be from chimney pipe to suntuf
Im puttung suntuf over my deck.. I have a wood stove, how far from stove should i stop the suntuf.
Hi Christina
Just to clarify is the flue of the wood stove going through the Suntuf sheet?
Thanks Judy
Hi Christina
Suntuf has a long term service temperature of 100 degree C. It would depend on the flue system – but you would need to ensure that the temp stays below this. There maybe laws around this also you need to consider?
Thanks Team PC
How does polycarbonate roofing hold up in the desert sun of AZ? Maintanence? Years of service?
Hi Dwane
We cover Suntuf products in Australia – you question is probably best answered from someone in the US – they will be able to guide you on local warranties etc.
Thanks Team PC Aus!
Hi there,
I have just installed 5 sheets on the pergola roof and 3 of them have buckled at the overlap towards the top of the panel, closest to house roof. The screws are not overtight as they are the self-cutting type. Now I do’t know if there will be leakage if it rains.
I’m not sure how it happened but it looks terrible! Please advise.
Thanks.
Rose
Hi Rose
Thanks for the message. it is hard to suggest things without seeing the sheeting. The main areas of concern would normally be over tightening the screws (this can still be done with screws with cutters). basically you should be looking got good contact with the washer without deforming the profile of the sheet. Are both sheets clear of the cutter on the screw – maybe they have been caught? The other area may be making sure the sheets have been laid square – this may be why it is out on the one end more?
Hopefully this may help. Good luck!
Team Polycarbonate
We have a pyramid pergola with thatch covering. We are thinking of ditching the thatch and replacing it with your product. But we’re not very clear as to how we would “cap” the structure at its apex. Any suggestions?
Hi Alan
This type of capping is usually referred to as a ridge cap olong each of the sides. The ‘cap’ section would probably be best to see a local metal fabricator – the would bee able to bend you something to suit.
Team polycarbonate
Hi Alan
Thanks for the question. For this type of ‘flashing’ you are best to speak with a local metal fabricator to have something folded in metal to fit. We can also supply foam infill for most products if required.
Team PC
hi,
I am looking for a guide to installing a suntuf ridge cap?
Hi Brendan
I have not seen any specific guide for this. Generally it is treated that same way as the sheet. Screw through the ridge cap (then the sheet) with your screws. The below link covers a few basics for this…
http://polycarbonate.com.au/suntuf-installation-guide-tips/
Thanks Team PC
Hello,
I’m building a flat roof verandah attached to the back of my house.
Fall is 5 degrees and I’m using corrugated clear poly.
The end wall of the house is flat continuing up as an end gable.
The gable is fibre cement sheet, the lower part of the wall is colourbond corrugated steel sheet which will be under the verandah. There is a 600mm eaves at this end of the house .
The main support beam attached to the house id 140mm x 35 mm Treated Pine.
What do your recommend for sealing the poly sheets at the house end,
Metal Back Channel 40mmx 20mm with foam infill….
or
Apron Flashing ( Corrugated ) with foam infill.
Verandah length is 6000mm ( 6 Metres )
Obviously Metal Back Channel will be the most cost effective .
The verandah is on the opposite side of the house to the normal prevailing weather side.
Thanks,
Hi Laurie
Thanks for the questions. You are correct the back channel will be cheaper option. The PC apron probably makes life a little easier as it will be flexible enough to account for the pitch. you will have a small gap behind the back channel due to the pitch – this can be siliconed for water proofing. If you get the profiled apron you won’t require the infills. There is no wrong way from what you have suggested – clearance sometimes dictates which way you would need to go.
Thanks Team PC
Hi Laurie
Any idea roughly how many screws needed for 16 sheets of suntuf -width 860mm and 2.6 length ?
Hi Toni
Would would suggest around 250 screws for this area – this equated to approx 8/sqm.
Thanks team PC
Hi, we built a timber-framed, polycarbonate sheeted roof over our deck about 8 years ago. In heavy rain water drips from the two hips. The drips appear to be coming from screw locations. The screws are those with the cutter and rubber washer. On inspection the rubber washers at most screws are severely cracked, and sometimes missing. How long are these washers expected to last? I have tried to remove a screw to replace, but with the cutter in place it is difficult to remove the screw. What now?
Hi Bob
Thanks for the message. These washers will of course deteriorate, but I have never heard of them being problematic that early. AS you suggest the best course of action would be to replace the screws, some care would need to be taken.
Unfortunately there is no easier fix that I am aware of.
Thanks team PC
I am going to use polycarbonate roofing panels underneath my new deck to keep the area underneath dry. I do not want to use perlins, as leaves will become trapped, so I am planning to rip some pressure-treated pine with constant slope and attach along the length of the joists, then attach the panels to that. Sound reasonable? Also, joists are on 16″ centers, and the 12′ panels that I need are 26″ wide. Suggestions for how to handle the overlap?
Hi Jamie
It really depends on what sheet you are looking at using. A profiled sheet (e.g. corrugated or greca) wont be suitable – if I am understanding your email correctly. These types of sheets require the support of purlins, otherwise they will sag.
If you are look at a twinwall like a sunlite, this would be possible. However you would need to rip the sheets down so that they join on your ‘rafter’ or timber.
I hope this helps.
Team PC
Hi, I am in the process of designing an outdoor area in Melbourne, size being approx 8m x 8m using PC sheet (corrugated or greca) for roofing. Given the temperature range where we can have +/- 20 degrees during a 24hr period, is it ok to use OneShot screws on a sheet of 8mtrs in length or do you advise larger fixing holes. Also can I assume that if a PC sheet at 8m in length can expand by approx. 20mm @ 0-40 degrees, it will then expand by half that for +/- 20, as we would never experience a temperature variance of 0-40 in Melbourne, the norm being +/-10-15 degrees. Thanks.
Hi Peter
Thanks for the great question.
When installing longer sheets (over about 7m) drilling an over sized hole is good practice. The OneShot screws are designed to cut a 10 mm hole. You would need to drill the sheets with a 12 mm bit, then use a ‘normal’ screw (without cutter) with a Polycarbonate compatible washer, to cover the hole. I trust this answers your question.
Thanks Team PC
I have recently installed Laserlite 3000 Grecia pattern to our patio. However I unwittingly selected too light a shade colour & consequently the light penetration can be too great particularly in bright sun light conditions. Is there a paint product available that can reduce the intensity of the UV rays and still allow reasonable light penetration.
Hi Geoff
Sorry to hear about your problem… There is nothing that we are aware of that will do this. Generally speaking painting poly sheets is not advised. Maybe you could use some shade cloth to help?
Let us know if you need anything else.
Team PC
does the polycarbonate has a tendency in leaking?
Hi Ken
No more or less than any other style of roofing. It will largely depend on structure and installation. Low pitched roofs are always more prone to leaks (no matter the roofing material). When installed correctly, all of these systems should be leak free.
Trust this helps
Team PC
I am installing the polycarbonate suntuf panels to the roof of my greenhouse. I am using the closure foam on the top, bottom and sides. The supporting cross sections going through the middle, Can I directly screw them to the wood framing or do I need the foam between the panels and wood? Thank you for your time
Hi Ryan
Thanks for the question. I believe from your email you are referring to infills. These are foam pieces shaped to suit the profile of the sheet. They are not required. A cheaper option if you did want to do something is purlin tape. This is a flat foam tape (sticky on one side). It is used to reduce creaking and cracking of the sheet as it expands and contracts. This is particularly useful if you have painted timber purlins. But again it is not required.
We hope this helps.
Team PC
I’m having problems with mould. Is there any method of preventing this by treating new sheets or removing the mould once it has grown on the sheets?
Hi Bruce
Thanks for the question. There is no pre-treatment that I am aware of that will help to prevent the growth of mould.
Generally, the simplest cleaning method for polycarbonates is a mild detergent with a cotton cloth or soft bristled broom (rising thoroughly afterwards). I have also attached the chemical resistance document which may guide you if your require something to kill mould. See here.
I suspect that you are past the design stage, but a steeper fall is also useful here. Trimming any trees etc if they are shading the roof area, allowing more sunlight onto the sheets can also assist. Regular cleaning may also prevent buildup.
We hope this helps
Team PC
Hi
I’m am installing a suntuf clear corrugated roof including flashing.
In regards to the flashing and attaching it to a weathertex wall am I right in assuming I have to cut a line along the entire span of flashing to put that little lip of the flashing in before I seal it with sillaflex.
Do I then drill the flashing into the wall and then on top of the sheets into the Perkins?
Sorry for the questions there isn’t much out there on flashing installation.
Kind regards
Gabes
Hi Gabriel
We can’t comment on the weathertex sorry! Certainly the flashing is secured to (on top) of the sheet and into the wall. If you are using any silicones be sure to use a polycarbonate friendly on (neutral cure). Were you using metal or poly flashing… metal will expand and contract less. If using poly shorter strips help.
Team PC
What sort on material (if any ) can be placed as close as possible to the underside of clear suntuf sheeting during summer season?
Or is this something which would reflect onto underside and create probs?
I was thinking of something thin,light in colour,low in thermal mass like fibre cement.
Maybe even with some sort of thin insulation medium if it is do-able.
Shade sails under the sheets is partially helpful but I think it’s an ‘after the horse has bolted’ bandaid
Hi Colin
Thanks for the question. There should be too many worries with solid products (such as fibre cement) or shade cloth etc… the only consideration is reflected UV. Depending on your sheets they may be UV treated on 1 side (facing up) which means if they are exposed to reflected UV they may deteriorate more quickly.
We trust this helps
Team PC
What is the best way to attach the sheeting at the house end of the sheet (within the back channel) as where I am installing it, it is very windy so I want the added stability. Can you use a long pot rivet ?
Hi Greg
I am not 100% sure what you are meaning here. Maybe adding additional screws to the last purlin is the best option? Otherwise usually the sheeting would simply sit into the back channel (into foam) which could be secured to the wall.
Hope this helps.
Team PC
Thanks for your reply, the problem I have got is that the back channel is larger than the sheeting, I got back channel for the ribbed format and the sheeting is the corrugated one and I cant exchange any of it so I was thinking of attaching the sheets some how into the back channel (against foam) to make it more secure, as the area I am doing is approx. 25 mtrs long.
Thanks
Greg
Hi Greg
Ok, a little tricky! Riveting would probably not be great over time due to the forces of expansion and contraction that it will experience.
Maybe another strip of foam to sit above the corrugated sheet – between the sheet and the top of the channel? You can get infills that would work ok – but i think it may still be loose in the back channel depending on the actual dimension!
Hope this is of some help.
Team PC
I’m installing a new roof of 6/11 m lengths of Spandek with a strip of polycarbonate half way across. The poly is in 2/6m lengths so I need to over the 2 sheets 1/2 way along with an approx 1 m overlap (saves cutting the poly to shorter lengths. How should I seal the overlap to prevent water ingress. I’ve seen some sort of tape in my travels through the interweb, plus a mention of silicone, or a Sikaflex type non-silicone. Which is best?
Hi Steve
Thanks for the question. Silicone or Sika is NOT a good idea. Polycarbonate will expand and contract and these can damage the sheets. We recommend the use of a sealing tape (which we can supply) either side of the screw line.
In regard to the sheet lengths, we would normally recommend trimming the excess from the sheets, this will always give the cleanest look. We can always trim these to length for you if this makes life easier.
I have added a link to the full installation guide for your reference.
INSTALLATION GUIDE
Let us know if we can help with anything else.
Thanks
Team Polycarb
Hi
I have a corrugated suntuf roof on a pergola and need to cut a 150 mm round hole into the roofing for a flu from a range hood exhaust fan. What is the best way to do this?
Hi Paul
Thanks for the question.
For a cut like this, you best bet would be a good pair of scissors! Start the hole with a drill is probably easiest. You will find it quite easy to cut with scissors.
We trust this helps
Team PC
Hello
We recently had a bad hailstorm in Sydney which has put some holes in my existing roofing. I want to replace it with a Suntuf clear polyC panels. Apart from removing old sheets and replacing with new, is there anything I need to consider
Hi Shah
Thanks for the question.
Mostly its pretty straight forward… you may also want to consider new screws, depending on the age the washer may have also become brittle. Depending on the what the flashing is made from, you may be able to reuse it.
Other components that may be useful are purlin tape and infill (if required).
Remember to be careful when removing old sheet – they can be brittle. Do not stand on them.
Team PC
Can you have gyprock installed under a polycarbonate roof or are their building standards that dont allow this?
Hi Catherine
This is something you would need to confirm with your local building authority.
Team
PCR
Hi There,
Is there such thing as lipped roof panels? normally i would use glass for roof panels and add a 70mm lip to the outer pane. is this possible for Polycarbonate roof panels?
thanks
Hi Marshall
Thanks for the question… there are some panels that have ‘lips’, though we are not sure about what you mean.
You are probably best to seek a supplier in the UK (we are in Australia), as it seems like you are in the UK?
Team PC
Hi, I had a 3.2 x 3 m steel pergola installed in my courtyard by a builder in January, with polycarbonate roofing. It is constantly making a cracking noise when it heats up every day for nearly 2 or more hours, no matter if the sun is out or not, which is very annoying. Can you advise if this can be fixed by the builder, as its still under warranty. What should I tell the builder to do to fix the problem. Hope you can help with this enquiry. Many thanks
Hi Sue
There are 3 potential causes/solutions that we may suggest.
1. Noise tape – used on purlins to reduce noise as the sheets expand and contract – this is usually more important on painted timber.
2. Screws over tight
3. No expansion hole around the screw. (not using self cutting screws or failure to pre-drill holes for screw)
Polycarbonate will expand and contract which can lead to noise. If you think it is excessive you may want to check the above.
Trust this assists in helping to resolve the problem.
Team PC
I need to fix my hail damaged skylights that are made with poly-carbonate Greca profile that flush mounted onto metal roof with matching profile .
My problem that all Greca profile poly-carbonate sheets I find on-line have 76mm between the ridges, where my old roof and skylights are approximately 90mm between the ridges.
Please advise where to find the old Greca profile poly-carbonate sheets or if they don’t make it anymore what’s the alternative
Hi Mark
I would suggest that the product you have is not Greca, but could be Spandek (metal), with the poly equivalent being SPANTUF. Please check the below profile drawing to ensure that this will match.
Trust that this helps?
Team PC
Hi, I am having a new pergola roof area 8.12Mx 3.6M to attach my South side backyard brick wall in Sunnybank Qld and bought 11 sheets SUNTUF STD GRECA CLEAR 3.6M. Is 11 sheets is right enough for 8.12M ? I have prepared 6 Dulux Weathershield painted purlins for 5 spans intervals , is it wasteful and too many holes on carb. roof to have 4 spans enough ?
I read your installation guides and conclude that ; I have to bend my upper body forwards about 760mm the farthest to drill the screws in mid spans ??, it looks a bit difficult to keep the drill machine perpendicular to purlins although I am 175 tall.
My friend told me to coil the sheet from side I am afraid it can’t be that .
Why don’t you have a detail illustrated pictures for this?
Thanks
Hi Francis
Thanks for the questions.
11 sheets is correct for the structure width of 8.12m, each sheet has a cover of 760 mm once you account for the overlap.
I am not sure 100% what your spans are but the mid spans on Greca profile can be 1200 mm with end spans 900 mm. If I understand you correctly your spans will be approx 900 mm – which is fine.
In most occasions (with the use of a ladder) installation is done by leaning over.
Let us know if we can assist further.
Team PC
I am installing a polycarb apron flashing on a pergola roof butts up against the house and does not have enough pitch. The pergola roof is metal. Will i need to predrill expansion holes in the apron flashing or will expansion not be an issue with such a small piece of polycarbonate? most of the polycarb will see the sun.
Hi Ryley
You are correct, as the pieces of flashing are generally smaller they will have less expansion. We do however recommend that you still use an expansion hole to be safe.
Trust this helps
Team PC.
Hi I have installed 1piece of suntuf corregated polycarbonate tinted sheet in the roof to allow light into our bedroom because it is dark. There is 1 batten or Purling not sure what it’s called but the piece of timber the polycarbonate is screwed to that is visible and condensation drips at the batten. How do I stop this ? Could I use the corrugated foam infill ?
Thanks in advance.
Hi Jason
Thanks for the message. There is no easy solution to this – it is caused by a difference in temp inside and out. I don’t believe that a foam infill will stop this.
Maybe a piece of twinwall a little below the corrugated sheet (still lets light through) may help to reduce the chances of condensation forming on the sheet?
Trust this helps
Team PC
I am planning to put a roof over an ‘L’ shaped verandah using Sunlite 10mm twin wall sheeting . One leg of the ‘L’ will be 4000mm wide and the other leg 1800mm. Both will be approximately 6000mm in length. The sheets will be fastened to Alyspan 100 x 50 steel patio rafters on 1000mm centres. The fall will be 5 degrees, perhaps a little better. As a hip will be created, can you tell me what is the best way to seal this?
Hi Harry
Thanks for the question. Essentially, you will treat the raked edge the same way as the top side edge of the sheets. There are a few option here pending your circumstance. Then get a ridge cap folded to suit and screw this to the h bars at each junction.
Trust this answers your question. Give us a call if you need anything else.
Team PC
I have a pergola with laserlite sheets along the back of the house (10m length x 4m width) it is about 10 years old. the sheets are fine but since last year if found they the end towards the house has stared leaking from the gap. I assume the silicone at that end has come off sue to expansion and contraction – how can i fix this is it from under the pergola or on the laserlite sheets and can i stand on a timber sheet on the laserlite sheets – Thanks in advance
Hi Edwin
Thanks for the question. There is a good chance that you are correct regarding expansion and contraction. Ideally, silicon is not used in this method – a back channel or apron flashing is generally the norm. Fixing it is probably a hard task. Given its age it is possible that you may crack the sheets when using a crawl board. Given this the only solution may be trying to access from below?
Team PC
I am installing suntuf roofing sheets on a pergola using one shot screws. I have noticed that a couple (so far) of the screw holes have developed a small radial crack during the drilling process. I am not sure what is causing this (too fast or too slow drilling? too much pressure?) however can these cracks be repaired, say with silicone, and if they can’t be repaired are they likely to propagate resulting in an unsightly, leaking sheet?
kind regards
Tim
Hi Tim
Thanks for the question… not an easy one to answer via internet. There is a sweet spot with speed and pressure. A mid speed is generally good without too much pressure. You need enough speed to ensure that the cutter will still work and cut itself.
Hope this provides some help?
Team PC
Thanks Team PC. Any options for repair of the ones that have occurred?
Tim
Hi Tim
Sorry, nothing that we can suggest in terms of repair… Did the washer cover the area?
Two cracks. One is covered by the washer the other is not.
Can you use polycarbonate roof to safely collect drinking water?
Hi Brad
Thanks for your enquiry.
While there is no adverse effects from the water collected off polycarbonate (i.e. leaching of chemicals) manufacturers will generally advise not to use due to other foreign items being on the roof i.e. bird droppings, dirt etc.
Regards Team PCR
Hi,
I need to install leafstopper aluminium gutter gaurd over some corrugated sheets on my pergola, what would be the best way to attach the saddles that hold the mesh to the sheets?
The saddles are tech screwed to the colorbond sheets.
Cheers
Hi Ant
Maybe a stitching screw could be utilised? Someone will contact you with details.
Team PC
Many Thanks.
Hi, I am turning my shed into a greenhouse and would like some recommendations on the best suntuf roofing if anyone can please help
Hi Shannon
There are a few option. Most people will us the suntuf range of profile sheets as a cost effective way of doing this. Sometimes the sunlite can also be used – though more expensive. Thge main consideration is colour pending on what you are growing and how much light you need etc.
Feel free to contact us if you want to talk about this more.
Team PC
I have a pergola measuring 16′ 4″ by 15′ 2″. I recently replaced the original polycarbonate roofing (Suntuf) using 26 inch by 12 foot pieces. The roofing company used the 15 foot 2 inch side to lay the sheets longways. To cover the remaining 3 feet+ they cut 4 foot sections and placed them under the 12 foot sheets. This morning, we had rain and the roof leaked in a couple of areas. I noticed that Michael (November 23, 2016) had the same problem. I read the suggestions and wish I could use the 1st option. The slope is not the greatest. Question: Can I use Loctite PL Premium 10 fl. oz. Polyurethane Construction Adhesive to stop the leaks? OR is there another adhesive I can use?
Hi Don
Thanks for the question. If I understand your message correctly, I think you have a similar – but different, problem to Michael. While we are not familure with that particular adhesive, the general advice would be NO. Polycarbonate sheets will need to expand and contract as they heat and cool so this is not recommedned. In Australia (i am also guessing that you are not from around here) we have a butyl rubber strip for waht we call end laps? maybe this is also available there? This rubber goes between the sheeets – but still allows them to move.
I hope this is of some assistance for you.
Team PC
What is the maximum distance I can space my rafters. I will be using clear corrugated sheeting.
This is to cover a grow site, so I need as much light as possible, and accordingly don’t want to cast shade with the rafters.
Hi Sean,
Thanks for the question.
Corrugated panels are installed on purlins, your maximum end span should be 800mm and maximum mid span 1000mm.
Hope this helps.
Team PCR
Can I grow plants under the clear corrugated sheeting?
Hi Sean
Thanks for the question. Yes, certainly. Infact clear polycarboante are used all over the world in commercial greenhouses. Depending on what you are growing, there are colours that diffuse the light if required.
Thanks
Team PC
Hi – We have a detached pergola (used as a car park) that has a lattice “roof”. I was thinking of adding polycarbonate to keep the rain off. However, I’m discovering that to add the 5 degree drop, this will be more of a project than I realized. The pergola is about 7.3m x 7.3m. If I used NO drop, the “rafters” and “purlins” are already in place – but of course, leaves and dirt will collect on the polycarbonate. Other than needing to be sprayed off occasionally, would laying the polycarbonate flat be a real problem on a detached pergola that DOES NOT need to be truly weatherproof? (Lifetime of the polycarbonate, etc.). It also won’t look as nice, but may do the job… Thanks!
Hi Dan,
Thanks for the question! The are a couple of issues with having no pitch on your roof. As you’ve mentioned the leaves and dirt will collect on the roof as the wind and rain isn’t able to blow/clean them off regularly. Another problem is water will pool as it can’t run off and this can cause leaking or sagging of the panels. If you have a low pitch on your roof, regular cleaning is recommended. Installing the panels outside of the manufacturers guidelines may void your warranty.
Many thanks
Team PCR
Hi there, I have to cut a hole for a downpipe which runs in one of high corners of the polycarbonate sheeting. What is the best way to seal around this downpipe to avoid water leaking through?
Hi Adam,
Thanks for the question.
You will need to use flashing to prevent leaking around the downpipe. If you are installing a profile panel such as corrugated you could use apron flashing with infills underneath or for a flat panel you could source a custom flashing from a local metal fabricator.
Hope this helps.
Team PCR
Hi,
I have a 5 degree corrugated polycarbonate roof over a swimming pool, and it is great! However the overlaps get dirty and are difficult to clean. Is there any solution? I was thinking maybe a bead of silicone to stop detritus and moisture getting between the sheets . But then this would make cleaning impossible, and besides I see you don’t recommend using silicone with polycarbonate. Any thoughts?
Regards,
Alban.
Hi Alban,
Thanks for the question.
You can use butyl rubber (which will be visible) between the overlaps and as mentioned it is generally not recommended to use silicone but if you do it needs to be neutral cure or non acidic.
Hope this helps.
Team PCR
Hi, I am replacing my old fiberglass panels with Suntuf. The old panels are in the Greca format and I want to replace them with corrugated sheets. Will there be any issues with spacing or flashing? Joe
Hi Joe
Thanks for your enquiry.
You would need to check the purlin spans on your roof to make sure they are within the recommendations for corrugated sheets i.e. end spans 800mm max and mid spans 1000mm max. If you previously had a Greca profiled flashing then of course this would not fit Corrugated profile.
Regards Team PCR
Hi,
I’m installing polycarbonate trimdek roofing – onto recently painted battens. The roofing area does not receive much sunlight so I do not expect too much movement in the sheets. I will use the Clearfix self-drilling screw. I’ve installed a number of additional battens such that they spaced very close together. My question is if I install anti-noice tape, is it ok that I just install it on every third batten rather than every single batten (which would be quite onerous)? Alternatively, I’m thinking of not using any tape at all.
Hi Craig
Thanks for your enquiry. Polycarbonate does expand and contract and the amount of expansion will depend on the length of the sheet i.e. the longer the sheet the more expansion.
To install purlin tape on every third batten would defeat the purpose of the tape so would be all or nothing.
Purlin tape does help to eliminate the creaking noise as the sheet releases from the painted surface. It’s not a must just an option.
Regards Team PCR
I am not planning any gutters with my patio roof. What is the maximum allowed overhang off the lowest purlin?
Hi Toque
Thanks for your enquiry. Maximum overhang will depend on what sheet you are using but the most common would be a maximum of 50mm past the last purlin.
Thanks Team PCR
Hi there
I need to flash Greca profile sheets against a fibro gable and they will run with channels parallel to the wall rather out from it as I have seen in your diagrams. What is the best method of flashing in this case? Obviously I can’t use the apron flashing to fit into the channels, so I was wondering if I could use your barge capping to prevent leaks in this case?
Regards
Rob
Hi Rob,
Thanks for the question.
Unfortunately we don’t have a suitable flashing we can supply in this instance.
You will need to source a custom flashing from a a sheet metal company in your local area.
thanks
Team PCR
If using for vertical application (wall cladding) – what would be the max spacing for the fixings?
Hi Corey,
Thanks for the question.
It would depend on the product that you are using? Generally (in Australia) you can increase the roof spans by 10% for a vertical (wall) application.
Thanks
Team PCR
Three quick questions:
Context: I have a open air pergola with flat roof in warm weather (100 degrees fahrenheit or 38 degrees celcius) during summer. Planning to use the following roof panel.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Suntuf-26-in-x-6-ft-Polycarbonate-Roof-Panel-in-Sea-Green-173520/305320663
1. What do you use for fall/slope, is it wood mostly or is there a ready made strip like below
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Suntuf-24-in-Horizontal-Plastic-Closure-Strips-6-Pack-92770/100067957
2. And what do you use the closure strips above for? Is it mainly to seal the sheet closer to wall/flash?
3. I couldnt find Purlin tape on homedepot, not sure if its required for this type of panel.
Hi DP
Thanks for your enquiry. As you are in the State please contact
US OFFICE
Phone: 1-800-999-9459
Address: 9735 Commerce Circle, Arcadia West Industrial Park Kutztown, PA 19530, USA
Email: ContactUs.USA@palram.com
Products and installation vary from country to country so you need to check with them.
Regards Team PCR
Hi DP
I can see from your enquiry you are located in the US.
Please contact Palram Phone: 1-800-999-9459
Address: 9735 Commerce Circle, Arcadia West Industrial Park Kutztown, PA 19530, USA
Email: ContactUs.USA@palram.com
for details as stock and installation varies from country to country.
Regards Team PCR Australia
Hi,
What screws are best for fixing polycarbonate wall flashing to timber?
Thank you,
Garry.
Hi Garry
Not sure what you mean by wall flashing – could this be an apron? – generally all polycarbonates will require an expansion hole. A OneShot screw will do this for you if you’re screwing through the rib/crest of the sheet. If you are screwing the pan or a flat part of the flashing you may require a standard screw with a EPDM washer – and PRE-DRILL a 10 mm oversize hole.
Give us a call if this does not make sense.
Thanks TEAM PC
We have just replaced old (16yrs) and damaged polycarbonate roofing on our pergola. We have used 4.8m corrugated sheets with one shot screws. The fall on the pergola is just under 5 degrees and we noticed the previous installer had siliconed the overlap of the sheets. We have lived here for 6 years and up until recently there were no leaks in the roof, we could sit under in all weather. Recent hail storms changed that, hence replacement of the roof. We have fixed the sheets with a 1.5 corrugation overlap, on some sections the overlap is sitting up and there is a 5mm gap. It doesn’t appear that the screws have been over-tightened. Any suggestions to prevent water ingress other than to use silicone?
Hi Gary
Thanks for the question.
A few things here:
1. It may be worth checking that the screws have cut the sheet properly on the laps. The sheets should sit together well on the laps, where you have a 5mm gap makes us think that there has been a problem with the screw. I would check to make sure that the cutter has cut a clear hole in BOTH sheets and that the cutter itself is clear and not ‘pinning’ either sheet in the areas where you have the gaps. A screw that is not straight, or not been secured without enough speed may cause this…
2. Silicon is not advised in these situations (as you have alluded to). Generally if you have a 5 degree fall and the laps look good, you shouldn’t have too much trouble. The best product to use if you are still concerned is a butyl rubber. The down side of this is that it is black and you will see it.
We trust this helps!
Regards
Team PC
Do you have a basic certified training for installation Panels and corrugated sheeting and cold store installation according to European code ?
For any info for Europe please contact
UK OFFICE
Phone: +44 1302 380738
Address: White Rose Way, Doncaster DN4 5JH, UK
Email: palram@palram.com
We are considering a polycarbonate roof over an arbor under a number of large fir, pine and cedar trees. Should we be concerned about water dripping from the trees and bringing chemicals from the trees onto the roof?
Hi Ken
I have sent you an email with some info on cleaning and chemical resistance.
Cheers PCR
we are working on installation of 10mm Solid sheets but the parent material in 15mm thick section , i want to know screws that can go in to 10mm sheet and 15mm thick pipe , and hold together on top vertical open side ..?
Hi Bala
You will need to allow for expansion and contraction of the polycarbonate. In the case of screwing you would need to have an over-sized hole in the polycarbonate. If i understand your question correctly – you may need to look a a different method as you will not be able to hold them together this way.
Regards
Team PC
I’m looking to replace my pergola roof with Suntuf poly sheets, the original roof butts up against the outside face of the gutter of the house and does not have flashing (just has a bead of silicone stopping leaks…)
Can I install C-channel and foam on the end of the new poly and butt it up against the gutter? Will this be waterproof enough?
Or should I install metal/poly apron flashing with foam underneath?
Thanks.
Hi Jake
You could go either way,but the back channel (c section) is quite well suited to this situation. You could silicon the back channel to help waterproof.
Regards
Team PC
Hi, I’m using corrugated polycarb sheets as a weather barrier around the back deck (i.e. as a wall, instead of a roof). In the gap between the roof beams and the deck rails, do I need to fix the overlapping sheets together somehow (like, with a rivet), or is that unnecessary? Thanks, Brett.
Hi Brett
Generally this is not required. Rivets are not advised in any case as they do not allow room for expansions and contraction of the sheets. If you do require the laps to be pinned together a stitching screw is you best bet – you would need one specific to the application (to allow for previously mentioned expansion).
I guess that you probably have a 1.0-1.4 m unsupported span? If so, this is probably a little over-spec for the sheets – the end spans should be no more than 800 mm… Though given its a wall you do have a 10% margin and probably less problems if your happy to push your luck!
Trust that this helps.
Team PC
Hi we are putting a dark poly sheet over our decking. Can you advise if when standing on the deck would then look dull in colour of grey because of the darker sheet above. I am wondering if we should have a lighter sheet above for a more natural coloured light when using the deck but do need UV / heat protection
Hi Chenee
Thanks for your enquiry.
Yes a dark colour will darken the area. By using a lighter colour it will reflect the natural light and look brighter.
All the colours (including Clear) provide 99.9 UV protection. But the actual colour of the sheet allows different amounts of light and heat trasmission so if you look at the brochures under the colour range chart it tells you what those figures are for both light and heat.
Regards Team PCR
Hi there,
Ill be installing a few plycarb twin wall panels to extend and existing colour bound roof. Since the exisitinfroof has its own metal fascia and a gutter, would in general installers mount the end alliminium cap to the metal fascia directly or is there a metal plate of some sort that is used as an intermediate support ?
Ill be putting 6 panels on 1m spaces wodden rafters.
Thanks
Arek
Hi Arek
Thanks for the question.
Generally the end caps shouldn’t be fixed to the fascia. They sheets will be secured to the Rafter through the HBARs. Then flashings should be used for waterproofing.
Team PC
Hello poly roof experts,
I’m laying out the framing for a 26×5 (feet) Suntuf canopy at a 14+ degree pitch alongside our house and plan to use the polycarbonate Suntuf wall connector (apron?) with the horizontal lap siding on the house. In order for the connector/flashing to fit correctly, what is the required distance between ridge plate and the lower edge of the siding? Any pointers for installation of the wall connector would be appreciated.
Hi Peter
Please see attached images. I suspect that these will assist with your query, though Im not sure what you are trying to ask… sorry.
These are set size option. In some circumstance you may find it easier to have something bent up at a local sheet metal fab. To suit exactly what you need.
I have just installed new roofing sheets with a 5 degree fall, it appears that when it rains the water will leak and it appears that it leaks at all of the joints, it seems like it gets sucked under the joints. is this possible ?
Hi Warren
Thanks for your enquiry. Can you let us know what type of sheet you have installed i.e. a profiled sheet (corrugated) or a twinwall/multwall?
Thanks Team PCR
Hi we want to use the Suntuf Ez-Glaze on a pitched roof, what do you use for a ridge capping?
Hi Dianne
We can supply foam infills for the Ez Glaze and then you can either use a polycarbonate ridge flashing (which we can supply) or a normal colourbond ridge (which you would need to get from a metal supplier).
The infills will sit in-between the sheet and the ridge to stop the wind blowing any rain back up under the capping.
Regards Team PCR
unlike corrugated polycarbonate sheets trimdek has a fairly flat ridge, do they need special flat neoprene washers unlike the standard washers that have the corrugated profile? I ask because I used the latter washers and as they are not fully flat they somewhat distort the poly if too tight and seems to have gaps if too loose. I’m noticing a bit of buckling in places (all have 10mm expansion holes) Please advise
Hi Joe
Thanks for your question. The washers supplied with the One Shot or Clearfix screws are the same regardless of profile. If the sheets are buckling, especially on the overlaps, I would suggest you check to make sure the cutter has drilled through both sheets, not just the top sheet. The other thing to check would be the screws are not on an angle. And yes it is a fine line of not screwing down to tight or too loose.
Regards Team PCR
Hi there,
How do you secure the infills at the front of the Greco profile roofing to get a snug fit? Given the flexible nature of the foam, I’m assuming you can’t screw through the foam. On the other hand I assume you can’t glue them to the roofing thereby inhibiting the expansion capability of the sheeting. Any suggestions? I couldn’t draw a conclusion from the image on the installation guide.
Thanks.
Hi Lynn
Thanks for your enquiry. Normally you would screw through the infill when installing the sheet.
You could glue the INFILL to the FRAME but never to the sheet itself.
Hope this clarifies for you.
Regards Team PCR
Hi do you make the profiled apron flashing for the Trimdeck sheets?
Thanks
Pete
Hi Pete
No unfortunately there is no profiled flashing for Trimdek profile. You would need to use a colourbond flashing and either scrib it or we do have the foam infills that you could use to seal between the sheet and apron flashing.
Regards Team PCR
Hello,
I am planning to install the twinwall polycarbonate on my pergola with the area of 16m2. I already have the 2.4x1m twinwall polycarbonate sheets and I know how to connect the width 1m with another 3 sheets of 1m using the H- connector. However since my sheets are only 2.4m long and not 4m long, my question is how do I connect the 2.4m sheet length with another sheet to make up to 4m in length? Looks like I can’t use H connector as the water will be trapped here. Can you please advise how I can connect another sheet that runs down the gutter?
Thank you
Hi thanks for your enquiry. Unfortunately you cannot join twinall sheets in length. As you have pointed out the water would be trapped where the join is.
You would need to purchase 4m long sheets.
Regards Team PCR
hi trying to replace damaged 5 rib polycarbonate roof on patio just wanting to know the best way to get in between the tin roof and the timber batton.
Hi Andrew
To access the sheets you will need to use a ‘crawl’ board – a plank of somesorts – put across the sheets to spread your weight. You should never walk directly on the polycarbonate sheets. You can then unscrew the damaged sheets and replace.
Regards Team PCR
Hi. Currently have old greca installed and want to replace with corro. It is a simple curved roof. Chord 3600. Height 500. Need to know sheet lengths please. Is it long enough to curve? Is greca or corro better for curving?
Hi Graeme
Thanks for your enquiry. Corrugated and greca have the same cold curving radius which is a minimum 4m. If the chord is 3.6m and the rise .5m then this is actually outside of the miniumum radius at approx 3.5m so would void warranty on the sheet. Over a chord of 3.6m the maximum rise would be .42m to be within guideines.
Regasrds Team PCR
G’day, is it possible to curve a flashing? We have a curved section over our front door which is currently covered by (what looks like) perspex. It is in need of replacement and I think it’ll be easy enough to lay a sheet of polycarbonate lengthways over the existing frame. One end of the sheet will need to connect to a brick wall. Currently the gap between the edge of the perspex and the brick is filled with silicon – it’s OK but not ideal. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Hi Callan
We only supply polycarbonate flashings in ridge, barge or apron so these would not be suitable for you.
You may need to get a colourbond flashing curved to suit the application.
Or if you decide to use silicone just make sure it is a neutral cure/non-acidic so it doesn’t damage the polycarbonate sheet.
Regards Team PCR
I have an alfresco roof section of poly carb sheets in a gable arrangement, ever since the Melbourne golf ball hail damage of Christmas day 2011, having had all the poly carb and clear ridge cappings replaced under my home insurance, the section of poly carb roof leaks when it rains around the ridge line areas.
The clear ridge capping is a flat style profile, I am of the opinion the water is making its way under the ridge capping and working its way down along the underside of the roof sheets
Is there a way I could rectify this problem?
Hi Maurice
I believe that you require an infill. It is a closed cell foam that sits between the flashing and the roofing for waterproofing. We will need to know what profile sheeting you have, contact us at sales@polycarbonate.com.au and we can assist further.
Thanks
Team PC
Hi there, I’m in Canberra, can you tell me where I can purchase the ridge capping in Greca solar grey? I have purchased the sheeting but can’t find the capping in this colour. Thanks
Steve
Hi Steve
Thanks for your enquiry.
Unfortunately Ridge cap in Grey is not available. The only option in the polycarbonate is Clear or you can use a standard Colourbond one if you prefer (which we do not supply).
Regards Team PCR
Hi guys,
How do you recommend installing flashing around corners?
I have a square column which the corrugated sun turf has been installed around.
The installers just used silicon but it has deteriorated, is looking shoddy, leaking and I need to make it water tight again.
Many thanks
Hi David
Thanks for the question. If I am understanding you correctly – the best way to do this would be with APRON FLASHING and or a PAN flashing (up hill of the column).
You will need to get something bent up to suit.
Thanks
Team PC
i have a 4 mr long wooden wall running alongside my pool. The wall has almost reached its use-by date and i am thinking of replacing it with a steel framed wall clad with either colorbond sheeting or suntuf sheeting which is the preferred option. I read that the uv protection is only on one side of the suntuf sheeting. Does the other side of the sheeting need some sort of protection from the sun?
Hi Lindsay
Thanks for the question. You are correct, some polycarbonate sheets only have protection from UV on one side. This means that if you expose the non-protected side to UV it can cause the sheet to breakdown prematurely. This can happen with walls or where UV reflects off another surface. Generally all ‘profiled’ sheets (Corrugated, greca or trimdek) are UV1 (one sided protection), most twinwall, multiwall and solid sheets are UV2 (both sides protected).
Trust this helps
Team PC